#EP 1132 EPROM PROGRAMMER TV#

The TV was on when I unplugged the power.

SORRY MICKSTV I was just trying to help being a samsung service agent and not seen the post you sent cos not bean a member longI make changes to the model option, panel size under service menu and my friend insisted on changing other setting ( EDID was set to 1660x900 or something - higher than the TV original setting ot 1366x768, we did this, after I read about resetting EEPROM procedure using service menu changes. Personally I'd throw it out but the dragon lady wants it fixed! Any thoughts? Dos anyone have the service manual? Does anyone have a main board? I'm desperate to fix it. It seems to me that something else maybe fried and I may have to try and find a replacement main board. What I am getting is the standby led flashing at me and sometimes the blue light on the bottom doing the same. I haven't replaced anything on the power supply yet but I'm assuming I shouldn't have to ( yes I'm sure that's what it will be. I replaced the eeprom (just in case) which changed the way it fired up but I still can't get it to show a picture before it shuts down again. I replaced the chip which allowed the TV to fire up but once it did it then shut back down. lolДЄnyway on opening up the back I found that the HDMI decoder was fried, you could cook an egg on it (a very small egg). She did this while the TV was still on but somehow that was my fault. My future mother in law connected a media player that we gave her for Christmas to one of the HDMI ports on the rear which shut down the tv and sent the power supply into the familiar clicking mode. Now I can leave the old Sony CRT out on the street. I could find only vague hints about the eeprom anywhere else. How do I remove the old one, melt all 8 solder pads at the same time, or 4 of them anyway? I did see the hint about reflowing the unleaded solder with leaded. Is the eeprom actually broken, or does it just contain corrupted data (presumably caused by ripple on the 5.4V)Дoes the genuine Samsung eeprom P/N 1103-001385 contain the correct, or mostly correct data, or is it blank?ДЄre the Sanwha caps on BN44-00167A known to fail like the ones on the genuine Samsung power boards?ДЄll the discussion on the forum implies that replacing an 8 pin surface mount IC is routine. Both boards have 1000uF 10V on the 5.2V STBY. The 13V has a pair of 1000uF 25V caps, but they are different diameters, intentionally, since the board markings have corresponding diameters. There are no 2200uF caps on the 5.4V, but a trio of 1000uF 10V. Although the electrolytic caps are the same infamous Sanwha brand, they are physically different and larger. The new board is not genuine Samsung, but Hansol brand, made in Thailand with a different circuit board layout, and the odd component left off, maybe to reduce cost. Electronics Market has part number 1103-001385 for $6.90, seems reasonable. Same with the original power board after I reinstalled it. Then I found this forum, soldered a wire to pin 5 (serial data) of IC1803, plugged everything back in, grounded the wire, applied power and saw the snowy analogue display. So far I'm down around $150, worthwhile to save a TV that cost nearly $2000. At this point I gambled on a new power board, ordered BN44-00165A but received BN44-00167A, plugged it in, same symptoms. I replaced every other electro on the power board. I did notice that the relay never dropped before the LED in the optical connector turned on. All the voltages were good, with no ripple. I replaced the 1000uF 10V cap on the 5.2V standby. I changed the swollen 2200uF 10V caps on the 5.4V output and the 1000uF 16V caps on the 13V output. I bought a new set then and just now got around to fixing the Samsung as an alternative to leaving it out on the street. First symptom was powering itself on overnight. I have a LA40M81BDX/XSA that died with the capacitor issue in March.

Ep-1132 eprom programmer